San Augustin Etla/Vista Hermosa y Fabrica de Papel (Paper Factory)

Tuesday evening we had a tremendous rainstorm.Sebastian arrived home about 10 pm accompanied by his Tio Alfredo and his Tia Lena.I told Lena that I wanted to go out to San Augustin Etla the next day and visit the paper factory there.Francisco Toledo-painter and patron (saint) of the arts in Oaxaca -worked on the project to restore the 17th. century structure and former factory for a cultural arts center that includes a factory where they make handmade paper.As my good friend,Karen Pfeil, is an artist and paper maker, I was curious about this place.Lena asked if I would like her to accompany me there.
Lena arrived by 10 am the next day and had phoned a former neighbor now living in San Augustin, to meet us and tour us around.
Lena is someone you really want on your team- she gets things organized and keeps conversation flowing- she has always been especially kind to me and looked after Sebastian when he was a baby.
We took a colectivo taxi (shared ride/set price/squeeze as many people as possible in) to the church in San Augustin and phoned Edgar,the family friend. As it turned out Edgar was the best guide -everywhere we went he was either related to someone there or was a friend of someone's cousin-muy conozido (well known).
San Augustin and Vista Hermosa are right next to each other- like Wyncote and Jenkintown or Old City and Society Hill.However, the walk from point A to B was intensely uphill.We decided to stop and have a bite to eat before the climb.
Nestled in the mountains, the view is truly beautiful.Clean,clear water runs down from the mountains through the village in stone gutters.It is a VERY quiet place.
Edgar said we were going to stop and see his nephew,who is an artist in the taller of his patron Maurisio Servantes).
The taller was a huge beautiful house with a large sunny courtyard.I felt a bit like I was in an Amoldovar film when the nephew came bouncing downstairs.His name is Angelo Alexander Dias Morales and he proudly showed me his canvases- most of which were huge.
Here is a photo of Lena,Edgar (in hat) and Angelo.
We proceeded up the steep climb to the church and paper factory It is spectacular- there is an amazing reflecting pool in front of the church and the cultural center features many pools and spectacular vistas.
Tucked away,down another steep road, was the actual paper taller.The paper maker turned out to be Edgar's cousin (of course) and gave us a demonstration of how they make paper.He strted by showing us all of the natural resources that they us- cotton,linen,hemp and various natural dyes and mica.They do use some alkaline synthetic dyes.
We looked at the large tubs of pulp and the handmade screen that they use.With an assistant, they put about 70 sheets of paper on the hand press and he pressed out all of the water. Next, he took out the hangers that are used for drying the paper outside in the sun.*(Note to Karen- I have many more photos to show you.)
We could see the rain clouds drifting towards us and decided it was time to head back to Oaxaca,with much thanks to our wonderful guide,Edgar!