Leaving His Mark...

Sebastian stuck this USPS sticker with his tag (bottom right/gold)on this sign across the street from his father's house.

The Bus Home...

This is the bus that we take to get to Sebastian's abuelita's house - it costs 4.5 pesos (.45 US).The drivers generally LOVE to blast music and sometimes decide to take an alternate route.
I went today to say "Gracias por todo (Thank you for everything) to the family,which of course includes extended family.One of the aunts told me there is going to be a woman's march tomorrow to commemorate two years ago when the women of Oaxaca took over the local TV station for 20 days!She said if I was here I could march with them- I'm sorry to have to miss it.
Apparently there was an earthquake here yesterday- I never felt it though I have felt many others here.It depends on where the tremors emanate from and the after shock as to what damage may occur.It's funny because last night Sebastian said when he was in the studio with his father,Fernando said he felt the floor move and then said it must have been in his head.





Here is a photo of one of Sebastian's favorite second cousins, Carlitos.Carlitos is three and is quite a spitfire.I wanted to post his photo as Sebastian ALWAYS comes home and talks about Carlitos.
Carlitos goes to guardaria (like nursery school) and if you ask him "How was school?" his response is "I didn't hit anyone today."He believes that everything is mio (mine).Although this sounds like bratty behavior, he also is very loving and chatters away in a soft,sweet voice that changes everything.His grandmother told me he eats sweets and then just explodes!However, she said, he has a very good ear for music.
He reminds me a lot of Sebastian when he was that age.

The Zocalo

The zocalo is the center of the social universe in Oaxaca.It is a mad riot of color,sight and sound.Natives and tourists alike share the space.Vendadores,young and old, male and female,aggressively or half-heartedly hawk their wares: globos (balloons),gardenias,rebozos (shawls),sweets , chicles (Chiclets),and a myriad variety of souvenirs, some of which are now made in China.The plaza is lined with cafes- in one corner a marimba plays, in another,Mariachis wail as the Oaxaca State Orchestra sets up in the kiosk.Humand rights marches and calendas all process to this place.It is a powerful magnet that draws EVERYONE! They say if you need to see someone in Oaxaca,sit in the zocalo.Eventually they will pass through.
Sebastian and I have strolled down to the zocalo every night.His evening snack is some freshly made papas fritas (potato chips) or papas a la francesca (french fries) from Mr's Cara de Papa (Mr. Potato Head.)On the corner of the zocalo is this cart with several young guys peeling,slicing and dicing potatoes at lightening speed.They fry them up in a huge vat of oil- yum!We also like tamals sold by a couple in front of the farmacia on the other end of the zocalo- they are some of the best that Oaxaca has to offer!
And so, it is with great sadness that we leave the zocalo but we know that with great happiness, we will return!

Primero Concurso Graffiti

This past Saturday was the first graffiti contest in Oaxaca. Scheduled to start at 10 am, Sebastian and his father went up to the plaza where it was taking place about noon, to find little action.
I went by about 4:30 and works were still in progress.
Sebastian (and I, as well) were a bit disappointed- the "graffiti" was on large canvases,not the walls. Hence followed the cliched "discussion" between Fernando and I about graffiti no longer being graffiti once it's off the walls and on canvas,in galleries (isn't that so 80's?).
Sebastian thinks they didn't advertise enough.

Filemon Santiago

Thursday evening Sebastian and I went out to San Felipe del Agua - a village about 20 minutes outside of Oaxaca.This is where we used to live when Sebastian was little- I had my cafe there and met my dear friend Laura and her husband Joaquin and son, Adrian.I had quite a lot of adventures there!San Felipe's population is divided between foreigners married to Mexicans living in big houses and campesinos (farmers) whose families have lived there for generations.
Filemon Santiago and I met when I was pregnant and living in downtown Oaxaca.He and our New York artist friend,Jerri Allyn,were the ones who took me to the hospital in his red jeep when I went into labor. They stayed at the hospital until after Sebastian was born and were the first people, aside from Fernando, to see him.So,we have this special bond for life.
I had spoken with Filemon on the phone over the years but hadn't seen him or met his wife and three boys.He was anxious to see Sebastian on this trip.
Filemon is also a painter and went to a school for art founded by Rufino Tamayo.At heart, he is still the boy from his ranch in the mountains.As a matter of fact, they had just gotten back from planting corn and beans up there.
During our visit,we were careful to wait until his wife was occupied with the boys before we took a stroll down "memory lane" and exchanged a bit of chisme(gossip).With three young boys ages 3,5, and 7, the house is lively!
On our way out,we stopped into his studio.I commented that I had never seen it so organized and that the large painting on the easel that he was working on was lighter in color and feeling than anything I had seen him do in a very long time.
I knew that this was an indication that he is truly content .

San Augustin Etla/Vista Hermosa y Fabrica de Papel (Paper Factory)

Tuesday evening we had a tremendous rainstorm.Sebastian arrived home about 10 pm accompanied by his Tio Alfredo and his Tia Lena.I told Lena that I wanted to go out to San Augustin Etla the next day and visit the paper factory there.Francisco Toledo-painter and patron (saint) of the arts in Oaxaca -worked on the project to restore the 17th. century structure and former factory for a cultural arts center that includes a factory where they make handmade paper.As my good friend,Karen Pfeil, is an artist and paper maker, I was curious about this place.Lena asked if I would like her to accompany me there.
Lena arrived by 10 am the next day and had phoned a former neighbor now living in San Augustin, to meet us and tour us around.
Lena is someone you really want on your team- she gets things organized and keeps conversation flowing- she has always been especially kind to me and looked after Sebastian when he was a baby.
We took a colectivo taxi (shared ride/set price/squeeze as many people as possible in) to the church in San Augustin and phoned Edgar,the family friend. As it turned out Edgar was the best guide -everywhere we went he was either related to someone there or was a friend of someone's cousin-muy conozido (well known).
San Augustin and Vista Hermosa are right next to each other- like Wyncote and Jenkintown or Old City and Society Hill.However, the walk from point A to B was intensely uphill.We decided to stop and have a bite to eat before the climb.
Nestled in the mountains, the view is truly beautiful.Clean,clear water runs down from the mountains through the village in stone gutters.It is a VERY quiet place.
Edgar said we were going to stop and see his nephew,who is an artist in the taller of his patron Maurisio Servantes).
The taller was a huge beautiful house with a large sunny courtyard.I felt a bit like I was in an Amoldovar film when the nephew came bouncing downstairs.His name is Angelo Alexander Dias Morales and he proudly showed me his canvases- most of which were huge.
Here is a photo of Lena,Edgar (in hat) and Angelo.
We proceeded up the steep climb to the church and paper factory It is spectacular- there is an amazing reflecting pool in front of the church and the cultural center features many pools and spectacular vistas.
Tucked away,down another steep road, was the actual paper taller.The paper maker turned out to be Edgar's cousin (of course) and gave us a demonstration of how they make paper.He strted by showing us all of the natural resources that they us- cotton,linen,hemp and various natural dyes and mica.They do use some alkaline synthetic dyes.
We looked at the large tubs of pulp and the handmade screen that they use.With an assistant, they put about 70 sheets of paper on the hand press and he pressed out all of the water. Next, he took out the hangers that are used for drying the paper outside in the sun.*(Note to Karen- I have many more photos to show you.)
We could see the rain clouds drifting towards us and decided it was time to head back to Oaxaca,with much thanks to our wonderful guide,Edgar!

More Wackiness...

I could probably devote an entire blog on the wackiness we find here... I am constantly surprised,amused,incredulous!

Here are a few more of our favorites:

We spend LOTS of time waiting for Fernando ,who averages half an hour to two hours late DAILY.So, we feed the fish in our courtyard and then try to pet them,climb up on the roof and observe life below and take self-portraits.





Bimbo bread- yes, EVERY English speaking person giggles and takes photos of this logo.




Graffiti (do you sense a theme on this trip?)There is a gallery here that not only promotes graffiti as art but invites taggers to tag the wall outside and have comments posted.To date, not many have taken advantage of this offer.















Outfits for your Nino Jesus (Baby Jesus).This is one of several stores that provide a variety of outfits for your Baby Jesus.You can buy sizes ranging from about 4 inches to life size.Outfits include velvet capes with maribou feather trim, wigs, gold sandals and even doctor's white coats.
Sebastian has his own,which I bought when he was born and we had blessed on the official day- February 2.












"Quiere un retrato? Dos por 30 pesos" (Would you like a portrait? Two for 30 pesos ($3 US)
Meet Leslie (blonde) and Rachael from New Mexico. I met these industrious young women in the zocalo.Rachael has been here six months and Leslie, who is working on her MFA at Carnegie Mellon, is here just for summer break.In an attempt to make some money, they have started this little open air portrait business.They bring the orange crushed velvet curtain from home, hang in over the rail of the kiosk in the center of the zocalo ,along with their sign and then proceed to work the crowd!For 30 pesos, you come back in a day or two and get two portraits- one small,one large. They seem to do a fair amount of business and are so cheerful and energetic!Here they have their example photo albums,which I refer to as their "Check it out"books.Note,Leslie's book- top photo-ME!
I love what they're doing because many years ago there used to be a very old man in the zocalo with a pinhole camera.For a few dollars, he took your photo in front of one of the fountains and then developed it in a bucket.I still have those photos he took of me.

Guelaguetza Popular:Monday

I went with Sebastian's aunts ( a smaller group this time) to the Guelaguetza Popular on Monday.We left about 8 am for a 10 am opening.However, because this is free, we had to get there early to get a seat.It was about a 20 minute car ride and when we arrived , parking was already at a premium.
There were folding chairs lined up around a raised platform stage in the middle of the technological school stadium field.Grandstand seats were also out in the open, meaning there was absolutely NO shade!The stadium was completely filled with many standing!
Many of the pueblas from the seven regions of Oaxaca state send their delegations to perform. This dance festival was originally an offering to the gods for a prosperous year of plentiful crops.
There was an astounding array of brilliant traditional costume,lively music and incredible dance and footwork - and sometimes a live animal or two such as a turkey dressed with the items for a shamanic ceremony such as ribbons and cigarettes! Each puebla's performance told a different tale of their history,myths,everyday life and major life events such as marriage.After each performance, the group had canastas (baskets) of fruits, vegetables,bread and sweets that they threw out to the crowd.It created utter chaos!!!
Speeches punctuated the performances- some explained the traditional dress of the puebla, others reminded all present that we laugh and dance today because we do not know what tomorrow may bring.Still others reminded everyone that this event was for the PEOPLE of Oaxaca!

There was a very "fiesta" atmosphere- outside of the stadium were lots of vendors selling food, straw hats, t-shirts and ropa tipica.Port-o-potties were set up as well.
It was a challenge to take photographs although we were seated about 12 rows from the stage, behind the seats reserved for the dancers.People popped up and down taking videos,using their cellphones as well as cameras to take pictures.Here are a few just to give you an idea of the movement and color- it was complete sensory overload- compounded by a brilliant, unrelenting sun!Many people here use umbrellas for shade but as soon as someone opened one in this crowd,EVERYONE shouted for them to close it so as to not block the view of those behind them.
Finally, at about 2:30 we decided it was time to go- there was no end in sight for the dancers.I was told this would go on until 5 or 6 pm!
I was very grateful to the family for bringing me t0 such an amazing experience!

Guelaguetza Popular:Sunday:Calenda

As I previously posted,since the 2006 conflict, there are two Guelaguetzas in Oaxaca.Sebastian's aunts invited me to join them in the Sunday calenda for the Guelaguetza Popular. Saturday evening the goverment sponsored Guelaguetza had their calenda through the city- I saw part of it and it was very polished and a HUGE tourist attraction.


I met the family at 3:30 on Sunday and we walked several miles to Xochimilco, a very old cobble stone neighborhood outside of Oaxaca ,where we would meet up with the calenda.You see, most everything is word of mouth here.Even if there is a "scheduled" time, you can pretty much disregard it.
When we found the calenda, we came upon a group of mostly young boys (there was one young lady in orange skirt)from Zaachila getting their stilts on!These kids were incredible- they walked and danced the entire day on some really varied terrain (cobblestone,pot holed streets) on these amazing handmade stilts that they had tied to their legs.
Everywhere, young and old, women and men, native and extranjero (foreigner) could be seen
in various forms of ropa typica (traditional dress).Groups of dancers from various regions along with their bandas de musica were joined by monos and cuetes.Political slogans were everywhere and chanted as we slowly made our way to the major highway and then to a serpentine route through the city to the zocalo.People lined the streets, cheered, danced,threw confetti and shared meszcal.
As we made our way through the city ,more and more people joined in the dancing and chanting.There was quite a crowd by the time we got to the zocalo (about 6:30).
The calenda made it's way round the zocalo along with speeches,dancers, cuetes.It was loud,colorful, joyful and lively!
Everyone was encouraged to attend the Guelaguetza Popular- free and open to the public as it was meant to be.

Urban Art

In Oaxaca i have been taking pictures of graffiti. everyday here there is new graffiti and some graffiti painted over. Below is pictures of two graffiti pieces on the street. the second picture is a stencil of canttin flas, who was the Charlie Chaplin of mexico. The first picture after that is me with my spray paint stencil. I would like to thank my friend Tim who sent me a picture of my print and suggested that i make a stencil. the second picture is a new thing that i just learned how to do called dry point. it involves taking a image and using a sharp metal tool to etch it on to a plastic plate. Then you put ink on it and print it. the picture that etched is from the newspaper of two boys , one has a sling shot. you can click on it to make it bigger. check out oaxacatimes.com for an article on graffiti.

Pictures taken by Sebastian and Karen

Muchas Mas Familia!

Is it possible... MORE family?!?!? SI!

This morning we left at 9 am to go to Ocotlan with Fernando, four of his sisters and their boyfriends and husbands and little niece (we were in two cars) for breakfast.Friday is the market day there and we ate inside of the permanent mercado.As you can see, Sebastian was thrilled to be up early and to have me take, yet more, photos.

Every outing is a surprise and after a visit to the church, which was beautifully painted with lovely, well dressed saints, we got back in the car to go visit ...more family! This part of the family lives in San Martin Tilcajete , a village known for it's carved animals.Part of Fernando's family are in this artful business! We went to two casas and shared the road with a herd of goats having their comida!
I took photos of the animals as they were being carved and then painted- it's quite a process and the end result is colorful and very imaginative.
If you look closely at the photo of the table of animals, Seb's Tia Lena bought the black and white cow for Seb.












Seb and his second cousins played on the swing in the yard and then went to the local tienda (shop) to buy some homemade cuetes. Little Panchito (in photo with Seb)immediately connected with Seb and worked up such a sweat lighting and throwing cuetes that he had to remove his sweater! He is six years old and a total chatterbox! Both of the girls also had great fun lighting and throwing cuetes.I tried not to be too panicked that someone might lose a finger.

We had a really delicious comida of a frijoles negros con hierbas (black beans with herbs) made by Seb's great aunt(in photo with Seb). She showed us a really precious piece of pre-Columbian
pottery- a nearly complete angel playing a guitar- that she found up in the mountains behind the house.After we all admired it's beauty, she gave it to Sebastian! A very precious gift, indeed!