The zocalo is the center of the social universe in Oaxaca.It is a mad riot of color,sight and sound.Natives and tourists alike share the space.Vendadores,young and old, male and female,aggressively or half-heartedly hawk their wares: globos (balloons),gardenias,rebozos (shawls),sweets , chicles (Chiclets),and a myriad variety of souvenirs, some of which are now made in China.The plaza is lined with cafes- in one corner a marimba plays, in another,Mariachis wail as the Oaxaca State Orchestra sets up in the kiosk.Humand rights marches and calendas all process to this place.It is a powerful magnet that draws EVERYONE! They say if you need to see someone in Oaxaca,sit in the zocalo.Eventually they will pass through.
Sebastian and I have strolled down to the zocalo every night.His evening snack is some freshly made papas fritas (potato chips) or papas a la francesca (french fries) from Mr's Cara de Papa (Mr. Potato Head.)On the corner of the zocalo is this cart with several young guys peeling,slicing and dicing potatoes at lightening speed.They fry them up in a huge vat of oil- yum!We also like tamals sold by a couple in front of the farmacia on the other end of the zocalo- they are some of the best that Oaxaca has to offer!
And so, it is with great sadness that we leave the zocalo but we know that with great happiness, we will return!